rabbit fur loss
Normal Molting
No matter what, you should expect your rabbit to molt completely once or twice a year. Young rabbits molt out their baby coats and get an adult coat anywhere between 3 and 12 months, though the middle range is more common.
A normal molt may take on all different types of patterns, timeframes, and effects.
Sometimes, you will see the molt begin as a widow's peak-looking pattern on the forehead. These rabbits look a bit like Dracula for a while. Then the molt will spread back to the rest of the coat.
Some rabbit just begin shedding a little bit all over. Their fur may slip evenly all over their coat so that no one part looks bare or particularly like they are molting at any one time, especially just after having been brushed.
A few of my rabbits start with a skunk stripe down the middle of the back or a pair or racing stripes. It looks as though someone snuck into their cages in the middle of the night and used a shaving razor in a long line or two.
Occasionally a molt will start as a patch of missing fur. That's very disconcerting because it looks like a problem. However, when the molting spreads all over, the concern over the one patch disappears.
Some rabbits molt very quickly, losing all of their dead fur quickly and find themselves in a totally new coat in a couple of weeks. Others seem to drag it out forever, just finishing one molt in time to start another one.
Generally after a molt, a coat is good to go for several months. As
your rabbit gets older, you may find that molts last longer and come a
little more frequently.
Excessive Molting
If your rabbit seems to continually be in a molt that never finishes, you may need to consider your feeding program and the temperature of his or her surroundings.
Changes in protein levels can trigger a molt. So if you are feeding an inconsistent diet, you may be causing extra molts. Molting is a bit stressful on a rabbit, so you want to keep the feed a consistent as possible.
You may also be feeding a level of protein that is too high. With the excess protein, the body is continually using the material to build a new coat - and get rid of the old one in the process. For most dwarf breeds, a protein level of 15 to 16% is sufficient. For wool breeds, 18% is typical. If you are feeding alfalfa hay on top of pellets, you may be increasing the protein level beyond that which is recommended.
Sudden increases in temperature can also trigger molts. In all
things, consistency is the key to keeping your rabbit happy and healthy.
Fur Loss That Indicates A Problem
Fur Mites
If the fur loss is accompanied by a white dander then fur mites are indicated. There is some debate about which treatments are appropriate for fur mites. I personally have used Ivermectin with success. Ivermectin is not labeled for rabbits. Consult your veterinarian before administering medications to your pets.
I use the form packaged for swine for injections. I give 1 drop per pound by mouth, wait 8 to 10 days, and then repeat. The dosage is 0.027 cc per pound for a 1% solution, according to veterinarians I've consulted. Many breedings give 0.10 cc per pound, but that is erroneously circulating information (probably confused with the correct dosage for other medications). There are side effects for overdoses, so measure carefully.
Ringworm
If the fur loss is accompanied by a ring pattern on the skin, your rabbit may have ringworm. Ringworm is transmittable to humans, so make sure that you take care in cleaning and sanitizing to contain the spread of ringworm. Either a bleach solution or an iodine solution (Vanodine, Povodine) should be used on combs, clippers, cages, etc.
Oral treatments are only required for serious cases. Clotrimazole
cream may be used topically, according to Virginia Richardson in Rabbits: Health, Husbandry & Diseases
Abscess
Fur loss under the chin, especially in a male, may indicate that the rabbit has an abscess. Rabbits have scent glands under the chin that may become infected. If you see missing fur beneath the chin before to check for lumps or legions associated with it. Abscesses may need to be lanced and usually require oral antibiotics. My veterinarian prescribed Baytril for an abscess that was not large enough to lance.
Wet Dewlap
Water crocks have their advantages, but one disadvantage is that they may promote a condition called wet dewlap, especially in females with large dewlaps (fat deposits under the chin and in the upper chest area).
Sometimes you will see missing fur in the dewlap area. Other times, you will just see that the fur is constantly in disarray in the area. If the situation is severe, you may smell a foul odor.
Clip the fur, make sure there is good ventilation, and change the rabbit to a water bottle that is fixed rather high in the cage so that she stretches up a bit when drinking. You may use a purple wound powder to help keep the area dry while it heals (available at farm supplies) and to help with any infection.
Fur Loss From Foot Pads
Fur loss on the food pads is a precursor to sore hocks. Periodically check your rabbit's foot pads to make sure they are well furred. Rex and mini rex are very prone to wearing their short fur from their feet.
Generally, you will not have problems with dwarf animals (except mini rex). Their weight is just not heavy enough to cause a problem, even if the rabbit has a wire-bottomed cage. In over 700 rabbits who have lived in my barn, I've only had one case where the fur wore really thin, and she was an especially small, thin-boned rabbit with other problems as well. I've never had an out-and-out cage of sore hocks.
If you see that the fur is wearing thin, make sure your rabbit has a resting board. You can literally put a piece of wood in the cage, get a cage that has a plastic shelf, or buy a snap-on flooring cover that is vented to allow urine to pass, but covers the wire with a smooth, plastic cover.
Barbering
Barbering is when a neighbor rabbit nibbles the fur. Generally, a dominant rabbit is barbering a less-dominant - and very submissive rabbit. When they are in separate cages, you realize that the less dominant rabbit is cooperating by pressing their head to the cage wall to be barbered. Switching cage assignments or allowing a little space between cages can eliminate barbering.
Self-barbering could be an indication that the rabbit needs more fiber in his or her diet.
Stress can also cause barbering. Evaluate your rabbit's
surroundings. Are there sudden noises , lights, or animal sounds that
are causing your rabbit to stress? Some breeders use a radio set on a
talk radio station to provide white noise and even out the sounds intruding
from outside.